From the Kitchen Garden: Michael Weishan’s Famous Garden Fresh Scrambled Eggs

A newly laid symphony in blue, white, brown and tan.

If you’re at my house for brunch, chances are scrambled eggs will be on the menu. Most of my guests accept a spoonful or two, anticipating a pleasant accompaniment to sausages, waffles, or blue berry pancakes. Then they take a bite. The conversation usually goes like this:

“Wow! These eggs are fantastic. What’s in them?! They just melt in your mouth.”

“My secret recipe.”

“Nah! Come on, tell me, we’re old friends.”

“Well they’re fresh eggs for starters. I mean really fresh, as in laid yesterday. There’s a huge difference.”

“I buy fresh eggs at the store all the time, free range, organic eggs even. But they don’t taste like this.”

“The average egg at the store is over a month old before you even buy it. Then the unhappy dozen sits on your refrigerator shelf for God-knows-how long. Besides, half the time this commercial free range business in the US is just a big sham to bilk the unwary: unlike Europe, there is no statutory meaning to the term. Chickens that have been raised entirely in cages, indoors, under artificial light, only to be let out for their last few measly days on earth for a fleeting glimpse of blue sky, are still called “free range.” It’s sort of like that final scene in Soylent Green.”

“Huh? Soylent Green?”

“Yah, you know, with Charlton Heston. (Then, in my best sotto-voce mock scream) ‘Soylent Green is peeeoooople!’

“Michael, are you feeling OK?”

“You never watched 70s science fiction, I take it?”

“No… But getting back to the eggs… So that’s it? They’re super fresh and truly free range, meaning that they roam around outdoors each day, eating naturally?”

“Yes. That’s the main part, but I do have two special ingredients as well.”

“Ah, now we’re getting somewhere. And they are?”

“How much is it worth to you?”

“After all the favors I’ve done for you?”

“Oh, OK, OK: two drops of truffle oil, and persaillotte.”

“Persy what?”

Persaillotte: Per sa ‘yote: it’s French. It’s a herbal mixture very common in France, but completely unknown here. My friend Christina brings me back a bottle on her annual pilgrimage to Provence each year.”

“Oh great, so you mean after all this, the recipe is essentially unduplicable without a trans-Atlantic trip?”

“No, not really. You can make persaillotte yourself, right from your own garden, with a common home food dehydrator. Take enough fresh parsley to make one dried cup (several handfuls) and dry according to directions. Then, take several cloves of garlic, and several large shallots; peel  and slice into thin pieces. Dry these in the dehydrator until they are completely dessicated; then either pound the slices into small flakes (a meat hammer between heavy wax paper works well) or put in a mini food processor for a pulse or two. In a small bowl, mix one cup dried parsley flakes, one heaping tablespoon garlic flakes, one heaping table spoon shallot flakes, one tablespoon sea salt, and several grinds of fresh pepper. Mix well, pour into a spice jar, and keep well sealed. The mix lasts up to a year.”

Eying me dubiously: “So that’s it? That’s all there’s to it?”

“Yep: four VERY fresh eggs (no cheating there, go to a farmers market or local seller, or better yet, get a few chickens for that backyard of yours)  a couple drops of white truffle oil, two dashes of persaillotte. Whisk thoroughly with a metal whisk until slightly frothy. Pour into a hot buttered skillet, and use a spatula to gently fold the eggs until firm.”

Taking another bite: “Michael, these eggs are really good. And look, they’re the color of the sun. I’ve never seen eggs like that. You’ve spoiled me on store-bought for life. Wow, what a great chef you are.”

Saying: “Aw… shucks.”

Thinking: “Cockadoodle doo!”


Comments

From the Kitchen Garden: Michael Weishan’s Famous Garden Fresh Scrambled Eggs — 4 Comments

  1. I still dream of those eggs Michael prepared for me during my last visit. They were extremely delicious. Love them.

  2. Thanks for the post. I will fall asleep tonight with visions of pairsyyote (pronounced with glaring American accent) dancing in my head. Subtle colors are great in your visual symphony.

    Lisa

  3. Those look amazing. I’m still a few years away from owning chickens but do get them from local farmers where they are a bit fresher than weeks old. Never heard of persailotte though, and since I own a dehydrator, guess what I’ll be making?

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